Again Kevin White demonstrates a sequence. This time the pendulum. The method shown here is good for huge distances. The full video of this sequence can be seen over on the video page. Seen here is practice with a converted dog ball. This is used for many reasons one of which it is easier to see, and also if you hit the ground whilst rotating, the ball will bounce and not smack the ground hard hurting your wrist in the process. Over 100 yards is possible with this cast and a tennis ball, and over 200 yards when used with a sinker in the 100g to 175g weight range.
The red spot indicates where the sinker is at a given time.
The Start Position. You are coiled up looking away from the target with the rod in the 2 o’clock position just as you were in the ground cast sequence. The rod is near vertical, and the sinker is on a drop that leaves the sinker about 2″ above the right hand grip.
The right hand is pushed away from you to start the sinker moving away from you. The idea is to keep this phase smooth, and to get the sinker parallel to the rod top.
The sinker is moving away now, steadily climbing against the rod top.
The sinker is heading toward parallel, and still on a tight line (no slack here) You MUST keep the right hand as still as possible during this phase to allow the sinker to climb up against the rod top.
The sinker reaches that parallel point. Try not to snatch or drop slack line here. Practice this part. You might find that pushing the tip of the rod forward at this point helps to stop snatching of the shock leader.
The left hand has started the push down and out bringing the sinker back toward you on a slightly angled trajectory. This left hand movement has the effect of lifting the rod tip slightly to reverse the pendulum. Keep the right arm still at this point so the sinker can climb back against the rod top.
As the left hand is completing the procedure in the photo above, the head is turned to look at the target, which as in the ground cast sequence is out and up at about 45 degrees. It is important not to let your right arm drift back at this point.
If you have timed it right when you turn you should see the sinker from the corner of your eye. This is your signal to start the rotation phase. From here the setup is complete.
Still looking forward and up, and with your now straight left arm and slightly 170 degree bent arm, start the rotation fairly slowly. This will also have the effect of starting the sinker to loop outside of the rod arc ( IMPORTANT !!). Why ?. Because if the sinker stays inside the rod arc you will bend the tip and not be using the whole rod for the next stages. You need the lead to loop round so you can bend or compress the rod throughout its entire length. You’ll feel the difference when you get it right. The ideal place for the sinker to be is at 90 degrees to the rod top as you make your move.This is called youre pickup point, and it’ll feel different with each weight you cast. Practice this part a lot.
Gradually increase the rotation speed whilst maintaining those arm positions.
Keep looking forward and up at 45degree’s. Keep it together here, steer with your left hand, driving it forward as far as it will go.
Drive that left hand forward and round holding it as straight as possible until it passes the centre line of your body. This is where you’ll finish off the cast with a pull / punch.
The PULL / PUNCH, really drive that left hand round.
Job done, the sinker is flying away very quickly.
If you’ve got controllable magnetic braking, then count 1 & 2 and start backing off. Keep composed and let the reel do it’s job. Try to watch the sinker during flight and adjust the rod top to allow the best line flow. There are of course variations to this cast, and we have tried many of them. The most important thing is not to give up and only change 1 thing at a time. Good Luck.
Article Source: myfishcasting.org