Keith White is shown here demonstrating the pendulum cast. It has slight but important variations on what is shown in the basic cast. I will try to explain the differences with reference to the basic cast, and also explain why the changes have been made.
The Drop: Ok, here is where we set the drop, that’s the length of line from the rod top to the sinker. Its important to get this right through trial and error and on this rod, which is my Zziplex HST, I have found the drop for this sinker (150 gram) to be about level with the centre of my right hand grip. Hold the rod with a slightly looser right hand grip than you would think. I’ll explain later. This cast measured 231 metres.
Adjusting the feet position and getting setup for the cast is very important. My left foot is aiming at my intended target, and my right foot is just a little wider than you would have it if you where standing talking to your friend for instance. This stance is much squarer to the target than we previously had, and we then coil up the body to get the rod to be in the right place for that 8 o’clock rotation we need.
Ok, we are ready to go. The sinker is brought up close to the rod ready to make the out swing. This should be smooth and firm, giving the sinker just enough power to go parallel to the rod top when it is at the highest point of its climb.
The sinker reaches parallel, and still on a tight line (no slack here) You MUST keep the right hand as still as possible during this phase to allow the sinker to climb up against the rod top. You can learn to push out with the rod top to stop any snatching you may experience during this time. So far things haven’t changed that much from the basic cast. Only foot position and smoothness have been improved.
This is where things are going to change. The sinker is falling back towards you on the inswing. This is where you’ll have to experiment. I leave the sinker to fall about 4 feet and then push down and across with my left hand. This waiting will give you a better trajectory on the sinker as it travels around the rod top. Some people wait until the sinker is perpendicular to the rod top before going with the left hand, and some even wait longer. About half way down is about right to start you off. Your right hand must be still. Control the inswing with the left hand only, and that looser right hand will allow the rod to rotate in your hand, so the rod rings can stay in alignment with the sinker.
The sinker has started to climb up against the rod top. Here is where I would have started to rotation in the basic cast. For now just hold off on coming through, but you might start to uncoil very, very slowly as I do, just to keep my timing.
Look at where the sinker is in this photo, and refer back to the basic cast. Yes, it’s much higher, and indeed much wider from the rod top than before. This extra height and width is a factor in getting the sinker into the right place for the pick up.
Before, in the basic cast we relied on seeing the sinker for the timing of the rotation. Now we should be feeling where the sinker is through the experience we have gained in the basic cast. It takes a while, but you’ll get it. Ok, I’m going to turn on the lead here, cause the sinker is 90 degree’s from the rod top and this is the ideal position for the sinker to be in. It’s best for the sinker to be slightly more than 90 degree’s than below that figure.
Ok, we are turning on the sinker. Now is time to uncoil and start to look up at 45 degree’s. Keep you right arm at 170 degree’s and keep your left arm straight as before.
Left arm still straight, you’ll start to feel the rod load. Don’t do anything silly here like hit the rod early. You’ll hit the ground. Note: The rod should be bending into a banana shape, allowing the sinker to compress the rod all the way through to the butt.
Still hold off on hitting the rod, just concentrate on keeping that rod coming round flattish. The sinker is now well out behind you and nearly ready to pass it’s danger point. When the sinker passes it’s lowest point or is on the lowest point behind you, PULL/PUNCH, LEFT/RIGHT, in that order.
As you do the pull punch, drive the force of the cast into your feet. If you keep your feet planted and solid the rod can unload against a solid foundation.
Don’t tip the rod top over with your right hand. You’ll change the direction of the sinker and put an oscillation into the rod. I.e. it will wobble when the sinker is released.
Still keep coming round the side, the rod will, or release the sinker where you looking. 45 degree’s.
A good cast will see both feet still firmly on the ground during the release phase. If you tend to lift your right leg or foot here you are probably going over the top and hitting the rod more with your right hand. More left hand drives the force of the cast back into your stance, which is really firm isn’t it.
If you’ve got controllable magnetic braking, then count 1 & 2 and start backing off. Keep composed and let the reel do its job. Try to watch the sinker during flight and adjust the rod top to allow the best line flow.
Please give this cast time. Slow down, and think technique. It means that you’ll be achieving more with less.
Article Source: myfishcasting.org